Parte 2 - An Aussie in Europe

Paris is known throughout the world to be one of the most beautiful cities with its undeniable charm and impressively detailed buildings. The fairy tale tree-lined avenues and parks, bistros and cafes, are a spectacular back drop for emerging talent and fashionistas to contrast against. An hour and half flight from Milan and I landed in the epicenter of the fashion world, Paris. 

Photographer: Irina Krupovich

It wasn't long until I spotted my first blogger having their photoshoot  on a well known Paris corner. Fashion is everywhere in Paris and you can see why it is the fashion capital of the world and why It is instagram worthy. The city exhales chic style and it flows through the city just like the water in the Seine.

On the streets heading to my first show at Hotel D’Evreux for the Fashion Week Studio presentation, I had my first taste of the Parisian street style. The below zero temperatures influenced lots of layering and statement outerwear, with a focus on coats that resembled doona covers and plenty of lens grabbing furry textiles.

The designer presentations held by Fashion Week Studio were a throwback to the more intimate elegant showroom presentations of yesteryear with elegant gold chairs, high ceilings and romantic decor in the picturesque historical plaza. A true Parisian fantasy of allowing the audience to be up close with the designs and study them in a personal setting. The designer showcase suited perfectly to the location and I must commend the organisers for creating a fantastic program that really did compliment each designer.

Nathanaelle Couture, an Italian fashion designer born in Belgium but based out of Los Angeles displayed an elegant and glamourous collection worthy of any red carpet with flowing hemlines and delicate embellishments. One of my favourites was a full length long sleeve pink number with high neckline. Pure talent. Her ability to work with delicate fabrics in to create such feminine silhouettes is a true skill that will surely have women beating on her door.

Supplied: Nathanaelle Couture

Miriam Budet was another notable standout with her ability her ability to combine colors, prints and textures that attract the eye. She definitely is a designer after my own heart with her unapologetic bold style that is so pleasing and refreshing to this Aussie's eye. 

Tuileries gardens was energetic setting for Premiere Classe and Paris Sur Mode trade shows that showcases high-quality and high-end jewelry, footwear, leather goods and many accessory designers (you can never have enough accessories) and labels that are chosen for their originality and creativity. Noteworthy was Trisha Paterson who produces limited edition dresses (who wants something that a thousand other people have?). Trisha designs her creations in Paris and uses the finest materials whilst having the Italian eye for quality craftsmanship which creates a unique blend between the Italian and Parisian fashion cultures resulting in fabulous exclusive designs.

Trisha and her models

Oxford Fashion Studio was presenting collections by independent designers at Le Grand Hotel Paris. The standout from this show, besides the beautiful room was Esha Sethi Thirani whose collection was outstanding in design concept, theatrical appearance and quality. Its female power driven ensembles with masucline and feminine details was pure art and fantasy yet totally wearable. Round of applause for this highly sophisticated collection. Yasmeen Jiaw deserves a notable mention for her feminine display that I could see on many a woman. Especially her lovely pieces involving capes! Equally Marisa P Clark displayed a mature collection that would fetch well with the late 20's to early 40's crowd with a mix of fashionable suits and flirty individual pieces in wonderful colours. Oxford Fashion Studio should be commended for their event planning and sharing the creative designers with the fashion pack not only in Paris but all over the globe. What a fantastic initiative to support emerging talent. 

Image supplied

Venturing back to Tuileries gardens to the captivating Paris sur mode trade show. I do adore a runway but there is something to be said meeting with designers and representatives from brands who will take the time to speak with you. A fine example was a lovely artisan, Krasnova Modiste who creates amazingly chic beautiful hats all crafted by hand who works at her own atelier in Paris making bespoke millinery. Her graceful style is a throwback to the glamour of early Hollywood with statement accessories that wow and thrill. 

Milliner extraordinaire: Krasnova Modiste

Photo:Constant Leloup

Photo:Constant Leloup

Hat: Krasnova

The streets are filled with photographers trying to capture the street style. Both on duty and off duty around well known Paris monuments. The number of photographers who jump out from behind a barrier whilst you are shopping, leaving a cafe or lighting a cigarette is quite humorous. Always be camera ready when you are in Paris and be prepared to say Bonjour to a telescopic lens. 

Treading the pavement from show to show you did see mainstream "influencers" in attendance who are clearly paid to attend and wear their sponsored clothing. I have to admit I was more enthralled with the individuals who showcased their own personal style and by the time the week was up, I was considerably bored of seeing the same "influencers" mainly due the repetitive same look. I really do hope there is a shift from "influencers" to people who inspire with their diversity and style as there is plenty of inspiration on the street. The street style scene is morphing into gimmicks with twins, triplets and matchy matchy couples.

Most people think of French style as stripes, wearing a beret, oversized sunglasses, red lipstick, overalls and looking like a mime. This is the cliché and one that is rarely seen on the streets.

Breaking down the wardrobe rules of the French was considerably easier than the Italian counterparts. They have non! Everything they do is chic, if it is going to the laundromat, out for dinner, to a fashion show or riding the metro to go to work. These women and men radiate in their clothing. Dressing well is about feeling good in what they are wearing.

Like the Italians, they do not focus on tacky trends, they set them. A key difference I noticed between the two styles is whilst the Italians flaunt their figures, the French flatter. Either way, I appreciate that both styles empower and make the wearer feel good. 

What else makes you feel good in Paris? The shopping!!! Stay tuned for parte 3

RECAP - MELBOURNE FASHION WEEK

Melbourne Fashion Week took over the footpath of Swanston Street for its annual week long offering that launches the beginning of Spring and Summer and the social season in which Melbourne comes alive. 

Suit: Jack London

Shirt: Department 5

Socks: Gucci

Shoes: Ben Sherman

Bag: No Name

Sunglasses: Arockonalens

The fashion obsessed flowed into the Melbourne Town Hall to view the latest offerings from both designers and retailers with their glasses of champers in hand. It is always a great environment to catch up with your fellow stylish friends, see familiar faces behind a camera and meet new and exciting people that your normally only communicate with through your instagram feed. The MFW Bar meant serious business inside with its set up and exhibition space, which unfortunately did not flow outside to the claustrophobic outdoor area on the footpath either side of the entrance. 

Courtesy: Mamamia

For dedicated fashion addicts there were a handful of people on the street that peaked my interest. Hoards of bloggers, influencers and wannabes presented their best offerings for the camera's as they circled the block. As you know the louder and more individual you are in your clothes, the more likely you are to peak the interest of the papz and be snapped. In this case I felt like I was stuck inside a photo shoot for a menswear suit catalog. After a week of viewing the street styles I was left with the impression that Australian menswear fashion is still relatively conservative, with not much evolution between seasons or even years. Thankfully there were standouts from the ladies who bought their A game to the footpath injecting understated chicness and colourful combinations whilst braving the chilly nights.

Shirt & Blazer: James Harper

Pants: Department 5

Shoes: Lacoste

Bag: Doucals

Sunglasses: Gucci

Trends that dominated the footpath outside the shows:

Street Luxe - The number one dominating trend was the mixing of streetwear with high fashion. Of course all black ensembles were everywhere, and the opposite. All white was also present like a flock of seagulls searching for a potato chip. 

Florals - As Miranda Priestly so eloquently put it, florals for Spring. Groundbreaking. Let's move on.

Belts - Belts were everywhere. Some good, some bad and some that I will be happy to never see again. If I see one more GG gold belt I think I will scream as it has replaced the tiresome YSL tassel bag that every woman has been renting for the last year.

Men in Suts - When it comes to men's suits there were some stylish accessories to set off the slim tailored fits that were on display. Plenty of pocket squares and lapel pins which showed individuality of the wearer. There were minimal pleated trousers which have been huge in Europe for the last two years and plenty of loafers with no socks. Special shout out to the gents who took the stuffiness out of menswear and wore something a little different and didn't play it safe. Bravo.

Pretty Ugly Shoes - Delighted to see so many wonderful shoes with different hardware and embellishments in a variety of styles both on men and women. Thigh high leather tan boots on women with chunky heels were a regular staple. The elaborate shoes would not normally be considered pretty but the vulgarity and opulence was beautiful and refreshing to see in Melbourne. ADORE!

Fur - Fur accessories adorned everything from earrings to bags and shoes. Poor little critters will live on for seasons to come after being dyed in fabulous colours providing a lux

vibe to ensembles.

Blazer & Coat: Oxford

Shirt, Tie, Pocket Squares & Shorts: James Harper

Sweater: Ted Baker

Socks:  Gucci

Most of the shows were exactly as I feared, producing safe visions of well groomed and pruned ensembles ready for the horse racing season in a few months. The flare for dramatics or igniting a point of difference was eliminated by many big designers that played it safe and delivering much of what they have for the previous seasons. However there were a few examples of inspiration and creativity that will be burned in my mind for a while. Don't forget to follow me on Instagram for updates

Garage Runway - As much as I enjoy a good summer dress, there was a lot of black and muted tones or uninspiring patterns that were constantly reused. I understand ethical fashion and the need to be wise with materials, but without variety comes boredom. I have seen so many dresses inspired by Queen B's baseball bat twirling dress to last me a lifetime. 

Menswear Garage - Alike the aforementioned it was held in the basement of the Melbourne Town Hall, the likes of Amxander, Jack London, Autonomy, Chris Ran Lin and Dom Bagnato sent styles down the runway that unfortunately did not peak my interest. Following European trends with oversized bumbags across the chest and numerous patterned materials that were reused for different pieces, there were a few nice pieces but nothing that made me gasp. The overall vibe of the show was trying to be edgy with the model selection, music, skateboards and styling, that it all felt the same. I left a little deflated after this showing.

David Jones - The creative styling team behind the show should be commended for creating safe ensembles that would peak the interest of suburban housewives and gents who require a suit for the races. A huge retailer like David Jones do know their target audience very well and this showcased their knowledge of their consumer, right down to the YSL heels or The Kingsman inspired gentlemen that will soon appear on movie screens.

Premium Runway Four - Finally an injection of what fashion means to me. There were opulent embellishments, tassels, fabric choices, voluminous sleeves and dramatics in the styling including a little homage to good old Formation film clip. The line up of deisgners meshed well together although once again there was a little too much black on the catwalk for my liking, but it is Melbourne after all and black sells. 

Premium Runway - Closing - The saying "Leave the best to last" was true of closing night of the festival with some inspirational displays sent down the ice melting runway. In a week that started off rather underwhelming it was good to wrap the festival up on a positive note with some of Australia’s most popular labels such as Romance Was Born, solid stand out for me.

After a few seasons not attending what was Melbourne Spring Fashion Week and rebranded MFW, it was pleasant to see new ideas influence the program and inject some much needed innovation into the festival. Melbourne has serious pride in it's events and the team behind Melbourne Fashion Week should be commended for staying current and on trend whilst producing a solid program. A huge shout out to the volunteers who spent 12 hour days holding the festival together. Round of applause.

I believe that some of the designers need to lift their game if they wish to retain current supporters of their brands, or attract new customers. By the end of the week photographers were not on the streets, media pit at the end of the runway appeared a little thin and there were many empty seats in the town hall creating an underwhelming atmosphere. With Melbourne Fashion Festival receiving an injection of funding from the State Government recently it will be interesting to see if the fashion capital is big enough for both Fashion Week and Fashion Festival. Let the catwalk battles begin.

MELBOURNE FASHION WEEK - MY PICKS

image: courtesy of google

Soon you will hear the sound of designer high heels clicking along Swanston Street towards the town hall as the week-long Melbourne Spring Fashion Week fast approaches. Melbourne gents have caught on and here you can see guys strutting this season’s favourite trends a long side the women as the city embraces the arrival of Spring, and soon Summer.

Spring Fashion is the perfect opening to what becomes the social season with plenty of fashion and style on show for the looming racing carnival. People replace their sad angry winter tones, ditch the black, and replace with upbeat colours and prints. As Meryl so nicely said “Florals for Spring, groundbreaking”. There is usually an abundance of floral.

I love the atmosphere of a fashion festival. The streets are electric and the energy races through me like a kid in candy store. Some people enjoy formula one racing, I enjoy the fashion circuit.

Being the fashion capital of Australia, MSFW has a lot of expectations to live up to. Melbournites are proud of their style heritage and the “fashion capital” label. We expect a lot from the runway line ups, the settings as well as shopping experiences which must be a daunting task for organisers in creating a program to cater to so many peoples needs.

Of course the shows are a highlight of the festival in the beautiful Melbourne Town Hall building. This year I decided to mix up my ticket selection with some front row, some middle row and some on the balcony overlooking everything like a hawk circling its prey. Which shows am I looking forward to?

I always have an appreciation for the talent of up and coming designers and the Student Runway Collective is a highlight as students creativity is on display from across the state. There is such purity of creativity and freedom when it comes to design students and not necessarily the commercial aspect of their designs. Runway Garage Menswear is ditching the town hall for a carpark this year which will either be a highlight with it's urban flavour, or a waste of my $60 odd dollars. At least it is something different. I do hope to view some variety and not just head to plain suiting with a Fedora on top strutting down the runway. Jack London is always a sure bet for having something a little luxy and unique, fingers crossed.

There is some interesting exhibitions and offerings around town during the week-long event including the National Gallery of Victoria launching The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture. The Imagined Fashion Masters MFW will be a highlight after attending their graduation show earlier this year and RMIT is showcasing its students in a free exhibition. 

The shopping precincts of Melbourne are once again on board and Emporium is transforming into an open-air runway showcasing Australian designers available for purchase within its complex. 

Melbourne has a large “influencer” contingent and I am looking forward to seeing if street style has advanced from what I saw at Virgin Australia Fashion Festival earlier this year and what I see on the gram. The gap between runway and footpath has significantly narrowed with brand sponsorship and a lack of originality for which street style was once known. I sincerely hope to see some originality of style on the footpath. I have heard some whispers that interstate is where the creativity is. Melbourne could you be losing your street cred?

Ethical and sustainability is huge everywhere at the moment including in the Fashion world. Melbourne Spring Fashion Week program attends to this nicely with the addition of a showcase from recycled materials as well discussions on the very subject.

Tickets and program are available online https://mfw.melbourne.vic.gov.au/

Get ready Melbourne, the footpaths are about to be crowded with photographers, bloggers fashionista’s, “influencers” and those just wanting to enjoy the fashion lifestyle for a night or two. Then there will be me, gorging on all the wonderful activity. Be sure to check back in a few weeks with my post- Melbourne Spring Fashion Week wrap up.

Let the outfit selection process begin!