The
countdown is on until the style elite descend on Canberra for FASHFEST. In the
lead up I caught up with Canberra designer Yumi Morrissey who is the creative
genius behind Zilpah Tart and its
strong colourful unique prints that I am excited to see sashay down the runway.
Image:
Andrew Donato
Where
about's did you grow up?
I was
born and raised in Canberra
What
sparked your interest in fashion?
I decided
when I was 7 years old that I wanted to be a fashion designer, and never
changed my mind. I spent my time as a child making outfits for my troll dolls.
What
personal history has(if any) influenced your views on fashion or your design
aesthetic ?
I’ve
always been a very girly girl so my designs are very feminine. I’ve also always
found individuality important, even when I was a child, and so this is part of
the way I design. The clothing stands out in a crowd, through the use of bright
colours/prints and beautiful flattering shapes. It’s not designed to blend in,
and the designs are not trend based.
How did
you get to where you are now? Where did you study?
I studied
a Bachelor of Fashion Design at Canberra Institute of Technology, graduating in
2007. My label at this point was just a hobby, while working in the public
service. After my son was born in 2013, I quit my public service job to take my
business full time. This was the time when I really started on the journey,
working out what my true aesthetic and business direction was.
I am
super excited to see the Canberra Institute of Technology, I adore the
creativity of students and their willingness to push the envelope. How did you
come up with the name for your label?
The name
Zilpah tart was my grandmother’s name. Zilpah was her first name, and Tart was
her maiden name. After she passed away, we were going through her things and I
found a 1930s brooch of a penny farthing. At that point, I decided to use her
name for the label and the image of the penny farthing for the logo.
Yumi Morrissey designer of Zilpah Tart Image: Holly Morrison
How many
people are in your team?
Just me,
myself and I. I outsource a small amount of production here in Canberra, but
everything else is created by me.
That
really impresses me that you are so hands on with your work in all fascists.
What is your favourite material to work with?
I use
stretch jersey. I love using jersey for the comfort and fit. Particularly after
having a child, comfort and being able to move easily (bending down picking up
a child etc) became super important. But I like to look good, and generally
jersey doesn’t fit that category. So I use design to be able to make beautiful
clothing that is also comfortable.
Everyone
has one material that they absolutely detest working with, what is your least
favourite material to work with and why?
That’s a
hard one… but probably chiffon. It’s slippery, it moves on the grain, and is
tricky to cut and sew. I generally avoid it at all costs.
I love
your use of colour in your designs can you describe your collection in 3 words?
Bright,
floral, feminine.
What is
your inspiration for creating?
For each
collection I design three new fabric prints based on Canberra photographs. I
choose a theme and this theme directs the photographs that I take to create the
fabric prints.
I love
creating clothing that is beautiful and unique, and not only makes someone feel
good wearing them, but through the use of photographic prints, creates a
personal connection for the wearer as well.
I agree
that clothing should empower you and make you feel great. What or who is your
motivation?
My main
motivation is being able to do what I love. I think following your passion in
life is so important, and I’m motivated to make my dream a reality.
Image: Anthony Caffery
In the
lead up to FASHFEST could you share a little about what I and the crowd may
see?
The new
collection is full of colour. I used photographs from several years of Floriade
(pulled them from my Floriade photo collection). I followed a sort of garden
nymph vibe, and this will continue through the makeup and hairstyling for
Fashfest as well.
You use
wonderful digital printed fabrics from inspiration you have captured around
Canberra, what is your first memory of using a camera?
My
interest in photography is definitely something that developed later on in
life. It’s something I really enjoy, but I’ve only really gotten into it over
the last seven years or so.
What
makes you passionate about fashion and the women you dress?
The most
important thing for me is being able to make someone absolutely LOVE what they
have bought and are wearing. I want to be able to make women feel good and
special when they are wearing a Zilpah tart dress. This has many levels too.
Not just the aesthetics of the dresses – I use shapes that tend to flatter most
body shapes – but the comfort, the easy care instructions, the versatility
(being able to wear the dress with a blazer for work, with sandals on the
weekend, and with heals to a cocktail party), knowing that they are wearing a
cool photo, quite often cleverly hidden in a pattern – this creates talking
points too. Then there’s the local aspect. My customers know they are
supporting a local designer. They know that the product is made in Australia by
me and they end up with a personal connection to me and to the clothing. It’s
makes it more special than a mass-produced piece with no identity.
What are
you looking forward to at FASHFEST, besides your designs on the runway?
This will
be the launch of my collection so I’m super excited to finally show the new
designs, but I love being able to work with other creative people involved in
the show, from hair and makeup, models, musicians, and just seeing the whole
event come together.
You have
been involved with FASHFEST for a few years now. Can you tell me how the
festival has changed over the years?
I started
at Fashfest in its second year (I was eight months pregnant when Fashfest first
launched or would have applied that year also). The show has grown enormously,
and it’s really developed its own identity. There are more designers and It’s
earned its spot as a major Canberra fashion event.
Image: Tina Nikolovski
Can you
describe what runs through your mind when you see your designs walk down the
runway?
I love
being able to see the designs come to life as a collection. I don’t normally
get to see the full collection all together on people at once so It’s great to
be able to see that. I also love being able to create a total image using the
hair and makeup and seeing it as a show. I’m really excited about the hair and
makeup concepts for this year. It’s an opportunity to be really creative.
What type
of woman do you envisage wearing your pieces when you create them?
My customers
are professional women, aged 25 to 40. They are confident and have a keen
interest in unique styles and love to look and feel good.
Where
would you like to see Zilpah Tart in 5 years?
My main
focus at the moment is trying to expand into the Melbourne market. I now stock
at Design A Space in Manchester Lane and Windsor. I hope to be
able to build on my customer base there, and then when that market is at a
sustainable point, to perhaps expand into the Sydney market.
What
advice would you give to an aspiring designer?
Think
about what you can provide your customers. What do they do? What do they find
important? What do they want/need? Think about how your product can appeal to
them on different levels. For example, my customers always tell me they love
how easy the dresses are to wash and dry and that they don’t need ironing. Many
professional women are busy and travel a lot. They love to be able to throw a
versatile dress in a suitcase, and not have to worry about needing to iron it
in a hotel room.
One thing
I should see or do whilst I am in Canberra?
One of my
favourite places to go is the National Arboretum. The views are spectacular,
you don’t want to miss it. Sunrise there is incredible if you are an early
riser.
You’ll
also be in Canberra at the only time of the year when Tulip Top gardens (just
outside Canberra on the Hume Highway) are open. They are incredible. I’ve used
photos from Tulip Top in a previous collection. Floods of blossom trees all in
bloom, tulips, and amazing views.
GFASHCOLLECTIVE: Thank you for the travel
recommendations and giving me a little insight into your world. I look forward
to seeing Zilpah Tart strut
down the runway on closing night at FASHFEST and
wish you all the best for the collection.